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Driving in NZ sucks

More than 95% of drivers in Kabul don't have driving licenses. There are only two traffic lights in the Afghanistan capital which is the congested home to about 1 million people - and no enforced road rules. Drivers may choose to drive on the left or the right, whichever is convenient. (Quote NZ Herald 6th Oct)  This is true, I’ve been there – and it started me reminiscing.

Two lane roads in many Chinese cities carry as many as 5 lanes of traffic. Sometimes there are 3 lanes in one direction with 2 in the other - sometimes there are 3 in the other direction. One never knows until out in the traffic. It’s very stimulating to one moment being in a stream of traffic heading (say) north then suddenly finding yourself at the head of that stream facing another heading south.  Drivers, many who don't have licenses or any training, work out the opportunities as they go. Astonishingly, the traffic moves very quickly - much quicker than (say) Auckland where most drivers are patent enough to endure the journey made slow by poor planning and pansy driving.

Recently in Ulaanbaatar, the capital of Mongolia, my wife and I were involved in a journey on a 2 way country road where 5 lanes of traffic drove at astonishing speed in one direction for over 40km to a huge sporting event - while a single lane of opposing traffic treaded through the center from the opposite direction. Passing was constant. As the outside cars moved onto the dirt road edge to overtake the ones behind and inside them accelerated into the space left by the outer vehicle. Attitude is everything, speed is admired. Nerve-wracking for us, but the locals loved it. Mongolians drive their cars like they have for centuries ridden their horses - furiously.

The main street of Moscow has a 6 lane road down the center with parking along the side. Everytime our driver took us down that road we experienced speeds of over 140kph - our driver was gutted because his car was too slow to keep up with the majority. Exiting a car parking space on the side required split second timing and full acceleration while ignoring the blaring horns. Drivers do live in fear of the Police who have the power to impose instant fines (that’s how they are paid) but they consider their best line of defense is to go as fast as possible, never look at the cop and don't stop.

Indians and many other Asians have a fatalistic attitude to their life and their driving. Their religion conditions them to the attitude that God has predestined when it is their turn to die. Up to that moment they are invincible. As a result they do not consider risk. If it is convenient to pass on a blind bend then they do so. If they live, they shrug and explain that “God is not wanting them yet”. As a result driving in the Indian sub-continent is full of surprises.

Even 'civilized' cities such as Paris enjoy a reputation for keeping the traffic flowing. Navigating the Champs Elyees and the Arc de Triomphe or any one of another dozen huge intersections in Paris requires considerable fortitude. First timers experience brain overload as cars career towards them from every direction while others swerve across their bows without warning - all tooting furiously.  It's fantastic.

A few years ago in Taipei I experienced a Taxi journey during which a motor-scooter carrying 3 people overtook us in a one-way street. My driver was incensed so he accelerated to maintain the advantage. The front passenger on the scooter grabbed the Taxi wing mirror to maintain position. My driver leaned out the window and beat the bikers around the ears with a rolled up newspaper. All this occurred at about 60kph. It became even more exciting as we neared the intersection where we had to turn because the street became one way from the other direction and vehicles were headed for us at similar speeds. My taxi, still in tandem with the scooter took the corner with barely a reduction in speed, split to pass a couple of cyclists, then maintained their drag race while screaming obscenities at each other. Their journey would have been a very satisfying and tension relieving experience. It certainly made my day.

In my view Cairo is the worlds best example of traffic management. There is none. The kerbs are made very high to stop cars and trucks driving on the footpaths. This leaves the paths free for motorcycles. Un-indicated U-turns are wonderful to watch. So are intersections where everyone disregards the lights. J-walking is an art. Tourists are requested to ask a policeman to stop the traffic. It’s likely to save their life.

Headlights are left off at nights so they will become effective flashers reinforcing the horn. A few years ago the government in its wisdom, made lots of rules very similar to our own. The drivers of Cairo looked at the new rules, laughed and burnt every copy they could find. Then they continued to drive as they always had. Furiously. They miss each other by millimeters – but they do miss. The accident rate in Cairo, per head of population, is lower than in Auckland and probably than in most ‘civilised’ cities. It has to be. The instant penalty for misjudgment is likely to be dispensed on the spot and probably very harsh.

Cyclists here in NZ cause me huge anxiety. They are the most venerable people on the road risking death at any moment – but they act as though they own the place. In all really congested societies the cyclists are extremely skilled – and they treat larger, faster vehicles with the respect they deserve. To see an often elderly cyclist weaving through traffic, across intersections and dodging other bicycles is pure live entertainment. They seemingly have 360 degree vision, superb reflexes and astonishing judgement. A few Auckland Cycle Couriers can do it but they are discouraged and treated like cockroaches.

Car pooling has its advantages but motor scooter pooling is much better. Most travelers to Asian cities will have seen whole families on a single scooter. The best I have observed was 7 people packed 3 high on a 125cc Suzuki. It was arguably the most energy efficient transport that has ever contributed to reducing urban congestion. There were certainly no crash helmets or protective clothing. These were replaced with skill, trust and respect for other traffic – all things missing in our ‘civilized’ roading environment. I have no doubt this family were very aware that should they crash someone was likely to suffer or die. Here on the other hand we believe in invincibility – that’s little different from the fatalistic Hindu attitude.

The rules in our country are made by killjoys, do-gooders and people who know what is best for us. They delight in punishing everyone for doing anything they personally believe is bad. Astonishingly they love to punish themselves as well – and feel good about it. That’s masochistic. They target the most useful object on the planet and dream up reasons to convince everyone it’s the most dastardly scourge to mankind ever invented. It’s bizarre. It’s rules that are slowly but surely killing the human race.

Most of the driving world operates on the principle that one watches where you are going and always concentrates on the vehicles ahead. It works wonderfully well.  Here in New Zealand we spend half our driving life looking in the rear vision, indicating and generally wondering what the hell every one around us is doing. This is a stupid waste of mental computing effort. By watching the vehicle in front and driving through the opportunities that present as fast as possible people are not on the roads for any longer than necessary.
All the really congested cities of the world would grind to a permanent halt if they drove like we do. Scared. We are in fear of ourselves, other drivers, the police and as a result fail to take a journey without it being a distressing experience. Give me the uncivilized driving code every time !  Driving in the 3rd world is exciting.  Rather than end the day thinking how tired and miserable we are, after a challenging drive one would celebrate the day by saying, “It’s great to be alive”.

Maurice O’Reilly


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